March 1, 2008

  First thing I did was to flush out the boiler with my garden hose. This was a very good suggestion from Tony Btaten in the UK. He has already had his boiler up to steam and said his regulator was stuck in open throttle due to metal filings getting stuck in the regulator valve.
1 Hour

March 2

  Brad Buetlich, from California, and myself have been assembling our boilers at pretty much the same time and we have found different problems and have our solutions here. One of the first things you need to know is to use a high temperature/ pressure thread sealant on all the fittings and threads. The Teflon paste apparently will break down and emulsify where ever there is steam, causing leaks. NOT GOOD! After consulting with some steam guru's we ended up using a product called Rector Seal 5, available at your local plumbing store. This sealant is good to 400 degrees F, 2600 psi steam, and 12,000 psi water. GOOD.

  Install the new water/ steam sensors in the manifold using the sealant, I also used a drop of oil on the o-rings to help them fall into place and seat properly. I then installed the fittings and valves onto the boiler as per the instructions. My manifold and union joints were off by almost ½ inch. To solve this problem; go to the plumbing store and get a 45degree elbow and several threaded nipples. I removed the 45 degree street elbow from the upper boiler manifold and using a 2 ½ long nipple, the 45 degree elbow, and a 1" nipple, then the gate valve and union, I was able to make the unions mate at the same height. There are several pictures to emphasis this correction. I also installed the 2 water check valves on the lower boiler manifold at this time. It is recommended that you install the throttle regulator now due to the fact that it is much easier to get to the small allen bolts now than when the boiler is in the chassis. See ISO final 1

  I prepped the chassis for the boiler installation: Remove both water tanks, remove the rear brake flex line (you will need to install a 90degree elbow later, due to the fact that the brake line hits the burner flange), and remove both the water tank support brackets and the rear chassis frame piece. Loosely install the water tank supports to the appropriate sides of the boiler. Remove the manifold at the unions on the boiler. I used and engine lift and rope sling to install the boiler into place, refit the rear chassis frame and let the boiler rest into position, align all the holes and secure all the bolts.
4 Hours

March 7

  If you forgot to install the regulator, like I did, then just support the boiler from underneath and remove the L/S water tank rail. This will give you enough room to access the 4 allen bolts from the bottom of the regulator. I had to notch my water tank rail about ¼ " in order to clear the throttle cable adjuster bracket. Install the throttle cable/ components. I put a small washer under the spring, as the spring kept cocking in the hole when I pulled the cable to actuate the regulator.

  I built the safety valve assembly, since it will be adjusted at a later time I only ran the adjustment sleeve to flush with the bottom of the valve. I had to hone the brass body so the valve moved smoothly in the bore. I then installed the safety valve assembly to the boiler manifold and then installed the temporary super heater bypass tube. You will notice that with all this plumbing, it's starting to get crowded. Install the drain valve to the bottom boiler manifold; make sure you don't leave the handle hanging over the chassis bar.

  I reinstalled the manifold to the unions and installed the gate valve to the bottom of the manifold, again not over the chassis bar. Make sure to seal and tighten the 2 clean out plugs. I'm going to be running a steam whistle, so I purchased a ball valve with lever handle and installed this onto the R/S upper manifold with the supplied 90 degree street elbow. This is the valve with the yellow handle in the pictures.
3 Hours

  The chassis is starting to get quite crowded and space is becoming a premium with still the fuel lines to be run

  Regarding the batteries, I've done the research with Interstate Batteries, and have found that the Optima Battery SC34DM will fill the bill nicely. It is a Deep Cycle Marine, sealed battery, (no acid mess or fumes) rated at 55Amp Hours, Reserve Capacity of 120. Reserve capacity is the important number, this means that the battery can run for 120 minutes with a constant 25amp draw. Also; 2 batteries will fit snugly in our battery box with just enough clearance for the floor. They list for $210. Each. For more battery information: www.optimabatteries.com

  There's definitely light at the end of the tunnel and it's getting exciting again.

  My next installment will be the burner/ fuel related installation.

Happy Building

Rick

Click pictures to enlarge

Likamobile Home • Kits One and Two • Kits Three and Four • Kits Four-B and Five • Caliper Correction
Kits Six and Eight • Kit Seven • Kit Eight • Kit Nine • Kit Ten • Kit Ten Addendum • Kit Eleven
Kit Twelve • Kit Thirteen • Kit Fourteen • Kit Fifteen • Year End • Kit Sixteen • Leaf Spring Modification
Kits Seventeen / Eighteen • Engine Modification • Boiler Installation • Burner Installation
Fuel Line, Brake & Throttle Pedal Installation • Final Kit • Final Assembly & Steam Up
Road Test & Modifications • Purge Modification