M12 burner mounting bolts for the mounting flange are to large,
a 7/16 bolt and nylock nut was substituted, I also had to drill
out the 4 flange bolt holes in the burner to accommodate the
new bolts. The burner gasket needed to have the holes elongated
for proper fit. Use a sharp razor blade, cut the holes to the
edge. I recommend using gloves while handling the gasket, it
is fragile and will cause skin irritation, like fiberglass.
Install the flange to the boiler making sure the locking bolts
are to the bottom and the side, otherwise access is difficult
when the burner is installed. Do not over tighten or crush the
gasket out of shape, just tighten evenly and snug.
Install burner, tighten the locking bolts to secure the burner
and then tighten the lock nuts. Using the Inverter bracket supplied,
drill holes to mount the bracket to the outside of the plastic
cover along with the relay, as the instructions direct. I changed
over the terminal ends for the inverter to a proper size and
used a star washer to lock in place.
There aren't any instructions as to how to run the burner fuel
lines, only how to hook them up. I chose to run my fuel lines
across the back and around the right side water tank. Making
my own brackets to support the lines and filter I am quite pleased
with the results. However you decide to run your lines, always
keep in mind future servicing. The lines do bend easily but
always use a bender or some other form while bending so as not
to kink the line.
There is a threaded bung at the top of the right side water
tank that can't be used because it is blocked by the upper boiler
manifold. I used a 3/8 slotted pipe plug and sealer and installed
it into that hole and cut the remainder of the plug off flush
with the bung. As you will find out there is very little clearance
between the boiler manifold and the water tank.
installed the fuel tank sending unit into the tank as per instructions.
An important note here; if you install the sender as per instructions
the fuel light will illuminate all the time and go out when
the fuel is low. This is the original design. I chose to install
the sending unit 180' of the installation instructions, so my
fuel light will now only come on when the fuel is low. I would
be more apt to heed a light that suddenly comes on as a warning
rather than no light, which means everything is OK. To each
I finished installing the fuel lines, remember that the fuel
line to the bottom of the tank is the feed/ in line. I installed
the return line in the top of the tank as instructed.
pipe fitting to the pressure switch will not go on easy as there
is paint on the switch threads. I used a wire wheel on my Dremel
tool to clean the paint off the threads. Even with the paint
removed it will still be tight to thread on, use some oil on
the threads and carefully thread the fitting on with 2 wrenches,
remove and clean threads and repeat.
Install the yellow spring as directed, turn the adjusting screw
down until 1mm below flush, this is a good starting point. The
o-ring goes between the bottom of the tube nut and the flange
edge, use some oil and tighten to the switch. I located my switch
high on the right side, and then bent my tubing accordingly.
The U bend must be made so as to protect the switch with a small
cushion of water that will remain in the tube. I used a fiber
washer as well as sealer on the adapter to the turret for a
The Steam pressure gauge is designed to be screwed onto the
wooden dashboard. As mine is a leather dash I made up a bracket
to mount the gauge. The gauge has a small nipple that is supposed
to seal into the tubing, I had to slightly enlarge the hole
with a drill bit. This must be done carefully by hand so as
not to damage the tube. I then configured my line bends along
with the U bend and attached to the chassis with several line
I then reinstalled the water pipes that I previously removed
for the boiler install.
I am running a steam whistle and I fabricated my steam lines
at this time.
I installed the throttle cable and sheathing. I found that with
the original spring return design I couldn't get full throttle.
I eliminated the original spring and drilled a 1/16th hole in
the regulator arm and installed a universal carburetor return
spring between the hole in the arm and the bracket bolt directly
above it. I did install a longer bolt for the spring to have
better purchase. Also; the cable is plenty long enough to run
but the sheathing is a little on the short side. I drilled the
throttle cable guide hole at the pedal larger to accommodate
a 3/16th copper tubing that I bent slightly for a smooth cable
flow. I used electrical sticky mounts on the fuel tank and tie
wrapped the cable in place.
The floor board cross members required notches to be cut in
order to allow clearance for the steam pressure gauge copper
line and the throttle cable.
I installed my batteries, since there are studs and wing nuts
provided on the Optima Batteries, I cut off the large battery
terminals and used properly sized eyelet terminals instead.
I added an illuminated toggle switch to my control panel for
my rear running lights, also; I mounted the 2 banana plugs in
the control panel for recharging the batteries.
I fitted the control panel to the front floorboard and
cut the notches needed for the wiring.
I added a master electric disconnect toggle for the main
(heavy red 10guage) power to the burner. This is the red switch
mounted in the existing hole in the kick board in the picture.
Should something happen in the burner area, or I want to service
something on the burner, I can flip the switch and turn off
all battery power to the relay and inverter without having to
remove the floor and disconnect the battery. I wired in my running
lights and brake lights at this time as well.
The instructions have the turret sensor wiring reversed, the
correct wiring for the turret and the water tank sensors are
from top to bottom are: yellow - blue - brown - white -red for
the ground terminal. I changed over the turret wire terminals
to a smaller proper fitting size.
With everything wired, you can now test the Led lights on the
control panel. Turn the key to ON, the only lights that should
be on is the battery lights. I've been informed that the top
light may not light do to the sensitivity of reading a full
charge. Your fuel light will work according to how you installed
you tank sensor as described previously. Using a jumper wire,
hook one end to the ground ring of the turret and touch the
other end to the top sensor, the top Led light should light,
the other lights should light accordingly as you go down the
turret. You should hear the burner relay click when you touch
the bottom sensor as well as light the bottom Led light. Repeat
the same test for the water tank sensors, except the relay won't
click when you touch the bottom sensor. If a Led light is on
without jumping the sensor, disconnect that wire, if the light
goes out then there is a short in the sensor, remove and disassemble
and correct. The inner sensor should not be in contact with
the outer bushing. Note: this test is assuming you haven't filled
the water or fuel tanks yet.
Fellow builders Brad Beutlich (California) and Tony Batten (UK)
have they're Lika's steaming. These guys made up their own plumbing
and block offs in order to get steaming right away. A lot of
the information that I'm reporting is from their experiences
and in no way is it final.
Brad has been in constant communication with ModelWorks
acting on behalf of the US contingent. There are several changes
that will be made regarding timing procedures as well as nozzle
changes in the burner.
I will be reporting these changes in my next installment, as
well as the Brake pedal modification, rear brake line modification,
chain installation, and fuel bleeding process.
As information comes my way I will pass it on.
ModelWorks say's that the Super heater, hand water pump and
water feed line should be arriving soon.
I was a little disappointed in the instructions concerning this
installation as I thought they would think this was very important
and should have provided as much information as possible. Most
of what I reported is information provided to Brad and myself
through emails and phone calls.
pictures to enlarge
Kits One and Two
Three and Four
Four-B and Five
Six and Eight
Leaf Spring Modification
Seventeen / Eighteen
Line, Brake & Throttle Pedal Installation
Final Assembly & Steam
Road Test & Modifications