final box of parts shows at my door. Went through the inventory
of parts, and read the instructions to familiarize myself with
the assembly and figure out how I'm going to approach this segment.
Remove the L/S water tank and the top of the boiler cladding.
I positioned the super heater as shown in the pictures. Note
that the pipes do not go through the oval hole originally provided,
but over the boiler manifold and between the upper chassis rail
and manifold. I loosely installed the elbows on there respective
fittings and bent and finessed the tubing to meet the elbows.
Remember to use a form or bender when bending tubing to prevent
kinks. I had to remove/ install the super heater about 10 times
to get it right. I used a tapered reamer on the elbows where
the compression fitting is supposed seat, (the elbow had no
taper at all) I reamed the tube just enough so the compression
sleeve will be guided into the elbow when tightening. The super
heater fit nice and snug, I had to remove about ½ inch
from the regulator side of the super heater tubing to make it
fit right. Do not tighten any of the elbow fittings until it
fits just how you want it.
With the elbow fittings tightened, I finessed the super heater
coil into the center of the boiler. I drilled 4 small holes
into the side lips of the boiler cladding and used stainless
safety wire and safety wired the super heater coil to the cladding
so it won't bounce around and cause the tubing to crack in the
The emergency blow off tube is now located almost vertical and
just fits between the chassis and the lower boiler manifold.
Cut the boiler top cladding just enough to clear the super heater
tubing. I made a block off plate to cover the original hole
where the super heater was supposed to go. Install the extra
insulation as needed. (Use rubber gloves) Install the top boiler
cladding with the screws previously used.
Build the water pump as per the instructions; I had to
hone the body slightly for the ram to slide in/ out without
binding. Note: the o-ring is installed after the ram moves freely,
as the o-ring will create resistance. Upon installation into
the chassis you will notice that the handle end of the pump
interferes with the kick panel. Remove about a 1/8 inch of material
from the ram handle end, this will provide the clearance necessary
so as not to interfere with the kick panel.
The drip oilier has to be moved or removed as per ModelWorks.
I made up a zee bracket and mounted the drip oilier inward and
back to clear the hand pump.
Bend and install the hand pump water tubes, I routed mine behind
the engine frame above the chain, see the pictures.
The vinyl water pump tube from the mechanical pumps to the tee
(mounted on the fuel tank) will have to be replaced. It has
been discovered that the vinyl tube will split eventually due
to the heat and pressure. I changed mine over to copper, curled,
to allow vibration and possible movement. This is a 10mm tubing,
In the US we can use 3/8 inch copper tubing with 3/8 compression
sleeves and the 10mm tube nuts supplied. Bend and route the
tube from the tee to the boiler check valve. Reinstall the water
tank and attachments.
The timing of the valves has changed from the original instructions;
the original set up gave the car a lot of power in reverse and
mediocre power in forward. The following instructions are the
latest and proven to be the best so far. Also; it has been found
that the slide valves have been colliding with the steam chest
corners and causing damage to the valve train. That remedy is
simple and since we are readjusting the timing, not much extra
effort is required.
If you have already set your timing as per previous kit build;
you will have to remove the steam chest covers, put at least
4 nuts back on to hold each steam chest in place. The following
steps must be made in order.
Place the directional lever in the neutral position; this
is the middle notch of the full quadrant. Loosen the lock
nuts on the reversing shaft; this is the large rod in front
of the engine, connecting the quadrant control shaft at the
top of the engine to the valve control on the bottom of the
engine. Rotate the adjustment sleeve so the valve reversing
arm (this is the arm we changed twice) is exactly straight
up while looking at it from the side. (See pictures) Rotate
the adjustment sleeve again so the valve reversing arm is
now exactly ¾ inch back toward the engine. Tighten
the lock nuts.
2. Place the directional lever in the full forward
notch of the quadrant. Rotate the engine in a forward direction
to bring the crankshaft and the piston to the top dead center
position. Never back the rotation if you went past the position,
go completely around again if necessary.
3. At this point we will remove the slide valve on
the side we are timing. Remove the shoulder bolt connecting
the valve guide to the valve rod. Loosen the 2 lock nuts for
the valve shaft to the valve guide, loosen the 2 lock nuts
on the top of the slide valve, loosen the packing nut for
the valve shaft, and back out the valve shaft bushing from
the valve chest. This will allow the slide valve to fall to
the bottom of the steam chest, remove the 2 lock nuts from
the top of the slide valve; the valve shaft will now be able
to fall down enough to allow you to lift the slide valve out.
Radius the corners of the slide valve and clean any sharp
edges that may have been created. On a perfectly flat surface,
glass, and with some 600 grit paper reface the bottom of the
slide valve. Reinstall the slide valve, the shaft bushing
with sealer, install the packing nut loosely, reinstall the
shoulder bolt for the valve guide and rod, reinstall the 2
locknuts on the top of the slide valve and adjust these so
there is almost zero lateral movement between the lower and
upper nuts but the valve is free to move against the cylinder
face. Tighten lock nuts when satisfied. Back to setting the
4. With the piston in the top dead center position
as in step 3, adjust the slide valve so the opening space
of the steam port is the same on the top and bottom. This
adjustment is made by turning the valve shaft in or out of
the valve guide. Lightly lock the nuts of the valve guide.
Rotate the engine in the forward direction 180' to bring the
piston to the bottom dead center, check the slide valve openings,
and adjust to be equidistant as before. What you trying to
obtain is the same amount of port opening when rotating from
top dead center to bottom dead center. When you are satisfied,
secure the locknuts on the valve guide. Don't be surprised
if the R/S valve openings are greater than the L/S, most everyone's
are. This does not reflect on engine performance.
5. Repeat the same procedure for the other side valve.
6. Make sure the packing is in the packing nut and
tighten. Put sealer on the steam chest cover and secure with
the nuts and washers as before.
I installed the brass side trim onto the panel, this requires
cut to fit. I used brass oval head wood screw for the installation,
about 10 per side, countersunk for a neat appearance. Polish
the brass for a classy look.
At this point I am ready to install fuel and water and
test fire the boiler. I will report on what happens on the next
pictures to enlarge
One and Two
Three and Four Kits
Four-B and Five
Kits Six and Eight
Ten Addendum Kit Eleven
Thirteen Kit Fourteen
Year End Kit
Kits Seventeen / Eighteen
Fuel Line, Brake &
Throttle Pedal Installation Final
Kit Final Assembly
& Steam Up
Road Test & Modifications